NewStats: 3,263,530 , 8,180,453 topics. Date: Friday, 06 June 2025 at 11:28 AM 2t5b5w

Bola4boy:
it doesn't burn oil at all and didn't have any timing code. But I noticed something- when accelerating, it will hesitate only to pick suddenly.

since I'm not seeing any code, maybe i should change fuel pump

Cryomancer:
Hmmm... Does your engine burn oil and how is the timing too? Try checking the pressure of your engine. You can keep the engine running, then open your oil cap to see if the sound that comes out is mixed with air (that's a quick pressure test I was taught)

I use same EOD and my acceleration is top notch. I rival cars on the road and I've been known on 3rd mainland bridge for my constant speed between 4:30 - 5pm daily.

Kindly check your engine thoroughly... There must be an issue somewhere.

Please explain that oil cap trick. I want to learn. I've come across a lot of cars that have puffs of air from that oil cap if opened when engine is running. What does it mean?

[quote author=rapheal5 post=134071837] [/quote

pls how do you check the engine oil %

anyibig:
First, I want to say a big thank you to the creator of this forum. I’ve been looking for something like this for years—nice one!

I own my first Honda car, an LX Accord 2013, which I bought as a Nigerian-used vehicle in December 2022. I got it at a very good deal at the time, but deep down, I knew things don’t come that cheap. I was prepared for whatever issues came up! 😄

A week after purchase, the problems started. First, there was oil leakage from the engine, followed by the engine struggling to generate enough power to climb hills. Then, the check engine light and other warning lights popped up—my dashboard was like a Christmas tree! 😅 Upon inspection, the engine was opened up, and it was packed with oil sludge! There were so many issues: the oil pump was faulty, there were piston problems, and more. I decided to replace the engine entirely, and honestly, that was the best decision I made!

After that, I decided to upgrade the look of the car. I transformed it into a 2015 Honda Accord Touring model and replaced the seats with leather. I also installed four brand-new tires, replaced the vapor canister (to resolve the persistent check engine light), changed the spark plugs, brake pads, and steering rack.

To be honest, I didn’t do all the repairs and upgrades at once. It took me about four months to complete everything, costing around ₦1.5m to ₦1.7m in total. But mehn! I fell in love with the car! Money well spent!

Since April 2023, I haven’t had a single check engine light come on. I service the car religiously when the oil life percentage reaches 15%. Maintenance-wise, I always use full synthetic foreign engine oil. For coolant, I stick to the original Honda Long Life Coolant Type 2. I’m very cautious about what goes into the engine—engine don cost oo! 😅

Regarding fuel consumption, I always refill the tank when it gets to half. I’ve never let it go below that point—it’s easier and costs less that way. On average, I get around 170 to 190 miles from a full tank to half. It costs me about ₦35k to ₦40k to fill it up from half.

Currently, I’m planning to get a Honda CR-V EX-L 2018. 😁

Before I forget, a big shout-out to my mechanic, Alhaji Muri! He’s the most honest and respectful mechanic I’ve ever worked with. He’s especially good with electrical issues and has plenty of diagnostic tools to tackle any problem. Another shout-out to My Parts Nigeria, where I get my engine oil, filters, coolant, and other parts—they sell genuine products imported from the USA.

how do u check the oil % in acura mdx?

i start acura mdx 2011 and the accerleration point is raised above 1, the car making louder noise than usual and I cant accelerate, i have to put off the car ad start it again and it starts working normal but this happpens every other day and not pleasant. i scanned the car and they said I should change the throttle body and rocker arm but the price I'm seeing is ridiculous.

please who knows any dealer in ladipo to get the best prices for quality? they are still other parts to buy like steering rack and pump, lower arm and shocks.

Cryomancer:


Only someone who has done same conversion can give you accurate information on this.

Get the mechanic to give you a list of things that will be needed, then you can go to Oyingbo if you're in Lagos to confirm prices yourself. I think this is the best bet for you.

Also that with the current situation of Nigeria, the longer you wait to fix/buy something, the higher the prices increases.

please do you have the number of any reliable dealer at oyingbo

anyibig:
At Oyingbo, here’s his . 0803 216 9707

does he source for parts too?

Bola4boy:
my own eod acceleration isn't that fast o. Even on express, smaller cars dey dust me. Gets worse if I put on ac. The only code I have Is the catalyst absence. I just changed my plugs to brand new no difference. Pls what else can I do? Not that it's worse but a 2.4l engine should get more power fah. It's 4plugs though

If you have sludge clogging your VTC, VTEC, and the screen behind your water pump, you'd experience similar issues.
I'm surprised you don't have codes for that.
Confirm if your engine is in good condition as suggested.

cletz991:
I bought a naija used CRV .the check engine light and brake light is on on the dashboard. The car consumes so much fuel.

Any advice?

Certain model of Honda (pre 2013 era) are notorious for having their brake lights on caused mostly by a faulty handbrake switch.

Thane:



does he source for parts too?

already sent his on WhatsApp

Firebox123:
already sent his on WhatsApp

Thank you very much sir, seen

[quote author=Thane post=135154178][/quote]
I probably quote the wrong person

Macmilla:

Please explain that oil cap trick. I want to learn. I've come across a lot of cars that have puffs of air from that oil cap if opened when engine is running. What does it mean?

Na my local mechanic teach me oo. He said once you open your oil cap and the oil doesn't splash, then the engine compression needs to be checked. The reason it doesn't splash is because air is actually filling up the engine which isn't suppose to be. I've also heard two other mechanic say this but I don't know how true. But he said it's just a quick check for engine compression.

Even the noise will tell you something is wrong because you will hear how air goes through easily compared to when the compression is good and there's no air, what you'll hear instead will be like engine oil boiling and trying to splash/gush out.

Bola4boy:
since I'm not seeing any code, maybe i should change fuel pump

Baba don't just throw parts into vehicles that way na, you'll just be wasting money doing that.

If your vehicle isn't showing any code, then you might want to go for physical inspection to ascertain that all components are in perfect shape. It will save you cost.

Thane:
i start acura mdx 2011 and the accerleration point is raised above 1, the car making louder noise than usual and I cant accelerate, i have to put off the car ad start it again and it starts working normal but this happpens every other day and not pleasant. i scanned the car and they said I should change the throttle body and rocker arm but the price I'm seeing is ridiculous.

please who knows any dealer in ladipo to get the best prices for quality? they are still other parts to buy like steering rack and pump, lower arm and shocks.

If the vehicle has been scanned and they have told you what you need to do, I'll advise you do that soon. Throttle body is a very important component of a car and if it's faulty, it will lead to other related issues like knocking sound, high fuel consumption, wrong air/fuel mixture etc.

If you are in Lagos and you can spare time to visit Willoughby Street in Oyingbo, they have more reliable parts for Honda cars than ladipo. You can search for luvinhubby here on nairaland and him for anything you need, he's 100% reliable.

I hope this helps.

Thane:


please do you have the number of any reliable dealer at oyingbo

I've responded to you before.

Search for @luvinhubby here. He has a reputation for sincerity.

Cryomancer:


If the vehicle has been scanned and they have told you what you need to do, I'll advise you do that soon. Throttle body is a very important component of a car and if it's faulty, it will lead to other related issues like knocking sound, high fuel consumption, wrong air/fuel mixture etc.

If you are in Lagos and you can spare time to visit Willoughby Street in Oyingbo, they have more reliable parts for Honda cars than ladipo. You can search for luvinhubby here on nairaland and him for anything you need, he's 100% reliable.

I hope this helps.

Thank you very much boss, I appreciate. will fix the throttle body today first and go to oyingbo as you suggested to fix the rest when I have chance

Hello everyone! I bought a Honda City 07 manual engine. It's working fine, but if I put on the AC, the engine goes off. What could be the issue

dfgconcept:
Hello everyone! I bought a Honda City 07 manual engine. It's working fine, but if I put on the AC, the engine goes off. What could be the issue

Hmmm... This can be caused by a lot of things. Get the vehicle scanned to be sure what's wrong. And if there is no code, then your throttle body, AC compressor, AC system or other major components can be the culprit. But ensure you scan first.

Thane:



how do u check the oil % in acura mdx?

go to youtube. you will see videos directing you on how to do that.

Wow, I read everything from page 1...

I love car talk.

Anyway let's get started... I have an 04 EOD...

2 months ago. I was driving then I had to reverse. After reversing, I say make I go forward, omo, car no move. Only Rev.. han han, wetin happen?? after getting lost for a few seconds, I put the gear for D2, car moved and I put in (D) and all works fine.

So since then, I've been using my car as follow. I start, I put in D2 or D1 to move a little and subsequently on Drive... If I start car and put in Drive directly, it will not move forward.

Reverse work well, no issue..

Current issue... Last week... I reversed out of my compound. Now both D2, D1 or drive will not move car forward. Basically, car can only reverse currently. Not moving forward... I don park am since...

No other issue... oh prior to all these drive issue, I changed brain box about 3 months ago and subsequently had the (D) blinks on the dashboard even while driving

Nb.i comb YouTube everyday for tips or something, most of the time I get gear switch sensor whatever whatever 🤷.
I just dey pray an hope no be big issue... 5 kobo no dey my hand like this.


Cc Macmilla
Cryomancer
Experience peeps pls gimme OT.

Cryomancer:
Na my local mechanic teach me oo. He said once you open your oil cap and the oil doesn't splash, then the engine compression needs to be checked. The reason it doesn't splash is because air is actually filling up the engine which isn't suppose to be. I've also heard two other mechanic say this but I don't know how true. But he said it's just a quick check for engine compression.

Even the noise will tell you something is wrong because you will hear how air goes through easily compared to when the compression is good and there's no air, what you'll hear instead will be like engine oil boiling and trying to splash/gush out.

No offense, bro, but this makes no sense. Almost every car has blowby and it is perfectly ok. The only confusion is how much blowby is normal and how much blowby signifies problem? I thought you have a good trick to detect too much blowby, but obviously you don't.
Just buy a compression tester and do engine compression test. Stop confusing yourself.

Cryomancer:
Hmmm... This can be caused by a lot of things. Get the vehicle scanned to be sure what's wrong. And if there is no code, then your throttle body, AC compressor, AC system or other major components can be the culprit. But ensure you scan first.

Alright. I appreciate

Starboytwo:
Wow, I read everything from page 1...

I love car talk.

Anyway let's get started... I have an 04 EOD...

2 months ago. I was driving then I had to reverse. After reversing, I say make I go forward, omo, car no move. Only Rev.. han han, wetin happen?? after getting lost for a few seconds, I put the gear for D2, car moved and I put in (D) and all works fine.

So since then, I've been using my car as follow. I start, I put in D2 or D1 to move a little and subsequently on Drive... If I start car and put in Drive directly, it will not move forward.

Reverse work well, no issue..

Current issue... Last week... I reversed out of my compound. Now both D2, D1 or drive will not move car forward. Basically, car can only reverse currently. Not moving forward... I don park am since...

No other issue... oh prior to all these drive issue, I changed brain box about 3 months ago and subsequently had the (D) blinks on the dashboard even while driving

Nb.i comb YouTube everyday for tips or something, most of the time I get gear switch sensor whatever whatever 🤷.
I just dey pray an hope no be big issue... 5 kobo no dey my hand like this.

So sorry about this dilemma. I experienced same issue too on my EOD two months ago, just that my D, D1-3 gear and reverse works fine but car keeps revving when the gear switches between 2-3 while on motion. I changed the two gear switches and it reduced the issue a bit but it still resurfaced. I was directed to someone in Oyingbo to help me fix it and I was billed 120k to repair the gear after buying gear solenoid switches for almost 60k. Spending 180k fixing a gear is no brainer for me.

I just vex go buy new gear to save myself stress and headaches. The new gear cost me 350k and the old one was bought for 80k, so I ended up paying just 270k for the gear.

If you can afford a new gear please just go for it and save yourself from gear wahala. But if you can't, you can find a reliable gear technician to help you fix yours but it doesn't come cheap sha. If you're in Lagos, just go to Oyingbo and get yourself sorted out there.

I hope this helps.

Macmilla:

No offense, bro, but this makes no sense. Almost every car has blowby and it is perfectly ok. The only confusion is how much blowby is normal and how much blowby signifies problem? I thought you have a good trick to detect too much blowby, but obviously you don't.
Just buy a compression tester and do engine compression test. Stop confusing yourself.

Well I understand your enlightenment.

Anyway if you read through my posts, you'll understand that I'm not a technician and this was just a trick that a local mechanic showed me long ago. I never said it was reliable and never advised anybody to base their findings on the outcome of this "simple trick".

We learn everyday and I've always been a vehicle scan advocate to ensure proper detection and fixing of issue.

All the same your corrections are well taken.

Good evening house, I want to change my car's transmission fluid, I have never changed it since I got it last year, but when I I checked it recently, I noticed the oil has changed color and is a bit low when I insert the dipstick. Now here is my problem, the old owner says he uses Oando dexron II on it, it's a Honda accord 2006 DC, cars transmission has been fine, no problem at all, but from all the recommendations I have been seeing online and the type of fluid recommended by Honda is the atf dw1, now I don't know if to continue with the dexron ii oil or do a drain refill x3 on vehicle and switch to the atf DW1, please bosses what do you recommend?


MACMILLA
Kingreign
Cryomancer

post=135191976:
Good evening house, I want to change my car's transmission fluid, I have never changed it since I got it last year, but when I I checked it recently, I noticed the oil has changed color and is a bit low when I insert the dipstick. Now here is my problem, the old owner says he uses Oando dexron II on it, it's a Honda accord 2006 DC, cars transmission has been fine, no problem at all, but from all the recommendations I have been seeing online and the type of fluid recommended by Honda is the atf dw1, now I don't know if to continue with the dexron ii oil or do a drain refill x3 on vehicle and switch to the atf DW1, please bosses what do you recommend?


MACMILLA
Kingreign
Cryomancer

Hmmm... This is very dicey. I don't think there should be any issues if you switch back to the recommended oil.

Those who know better should please shed more light on this.

@jceesquare
@nurey

i have a Honda 06 DC. Bought Naija used.

I recently changed engine oil from 05-30 fully sytentic oil to mobil 05-30 semi sythentic becuase my technician said the oil shortage was as a result of the previous oil.

But changing oil did not solve the oil shortage wahala.Worse is that the car now emits white smoke in the morning instead of steam. And the oil shortage has worsened as a result of the smoking issues.

What can i do to stop the oil shortage and the smoking issues? I now buy 5 liters of oil every week if i drive the car alot( for every 80 liters to 120 litres of fuel used) or bi-weekly if i didn't drive much( less than 80 liters of fuel used).

And i am presently saving money to buy a new gear becuase the current gear has started singing end of the roaf by boyz to men. It jerks while selecting lower gears or delays before it picks from lower gears.

Once on motion, the gear works fine, until I slow down again. Then the gear wahala starts again.

i actually have an option of buying a Nissan 2015 altima at 3.5m. (auction price).

My question: Can i still fix the Honda engine? Or is it better to buy a new engine and gear?

Or

Do I just sell the Honda as it is and buy the Nissan Altima?

Please advise me as per the cost implications. Cos i still have to do body work on the Honda. But nothing to fix on Nissan except suspension and AC.

My fear is wasting funds on the Honda and still not geting value for the money spent. What do guys think?

dalitigator:
i have a Honda 06 DC. Bought Naija used.

I recently changed engine oil from 05-30 fully sytentic oil to mobil 05-30 semi sythentic becuase my technician said the oil shortage was as a result of the previous oil.

But changing oil did not solve the oil shortage wahala.Worse is that the car now emits white smoke in the morning instead of steam. And the oil shortage has worsened as a result of the smoking issues.

What can i do to stop the oil shortage and the smoking issues? I now buy 5 liters of oil every week if i drive the car alot( for every 80 liters to 120 litres of fuel used) or bi-weekly if i didn't drive much( less than 80 liters of fuel used).

And i am presently saving money to buy a new gear becuase the current gear has started singing end of the roaf by boyz to men. It jerks while selecting lower gears or delays before it picks from lower gears.

Once on motion, the gear works fine, until I slow down again. Then the gear wahala starts again.

i actually have an option of buying a Nissan 2015 altima at 3.5m. (auction price).

My question: Can i still fix the Honda engine? Or is it better to buy a new engine and gear?

Or

Do I just sell the Honda as it is and buy the Nissan Altima?

Please advise me as per the cost implications. Cos i still have to do body work on the Honda. But nothing to fix on Nissan except suspension and AC.

My fear is wasting funds on the Honda and still not geting value for the money spent. What do guys think?

So sorry about what you're going through. Buying oil almost every week is financially draining in this economy.

From one Honda to the other, if I were you I'll save and get myself a new engine and gear then have peace of mind afterwards. It won't come cheap but you'll definitely not want to sell the car after doing so because you'll enjoy every smoothness that the new engine and gear will give. Just budget 1m for everything, direct untouched toks engine is currently sold for 550k while gear is 350k, but you'll old engine will be bought for 150k while your old gear will be bought for 80k so that leaves you with 650k to pay for both engine and gear then you can spend some amount in buying original engine and gear oil, amongst other few things that might need attention on your car. I've done same just last month and I never regretted it. Just ensure you buy direct toks Japanese engine from a trusted seller, not those rubbish being sold at ladipo market. (If you need help with recommendation I can do that).

As for the Nissan Altima, if you finally decide to go for it, just ensure you do a thorough research about the year of that vehicle to ensure there is no known factory issue that comes with it. I'm not a fan of Nissan so I don't have much to say than my only experience with a G35 that I was given, but I had to return the vehicle because I couldn't keep up with the fuel guzzling engine, but the engine power is slightly better than Honda. Also, Nissan has a terrible CVT gear technology which has been a headache for its s no matter your maintenance culture, so you need to watch out and be sure the Altima you plan to get doesn't use a CVT gear.

I'll leave the floor to other men with experience to give their input.

post=135191976:
Good evening house, I want to change my car's transmission fluid, I have never changed it since I got it last year, but when I I checked it recently, I noticed the oil has changed color and is a bit low when I insert the dipstick. Now here is my problem, the old owner says he uses Oando dexron II on it, it's a Honda accord 2006 DC, cars transmission has been fine, no problem at all, but from all the recommendations I have been seeing online and the type of fluid recommended by Honda is the atf dw1, now I don't know if to continue with the dexron ii oil or do a drain refill x3 on vehicle and switch to the atf DW1, please bosses what do you recommend?


MACMILLA
Kingreign
Cryomancer

You will definitely be safer with the recommended oil. The only problem is that most dw-1 oil we have here are fake. An original oando dextron 3 is much better than a fake dw-1.
...
Yes, dextron 3, not dextron 2.

Cryomancer:
Well I understand your enlightenment.

Anyway if you read through my posts, you'll understand that I'm not a technician and this was just a trick that a local mechanic showed me long ago. I never said it was reliable and never advised anybody to base their findings on the outcome of this "simple trick".

We learn everyday and I've always been a vehicle scan advocate to ensure proper detection and fixing of issue.

All the same your corrections are well taken.

I may have sounded rude there a bit and I apologize.
The truth is that I am also not a technician. I just love cars so much and love getting them to work perfectly.
The problem is that most of our so-called technicians are nothing but herbalists. I am yet to see a technician so a compression test, but having researched on it, it is the easiest and most important test one can do to know the life of an engine. The tool needed is very cheap, at least on AliExpress, the process takes less than 15min if you know what you are doing. It's just funny they don't want to learn it.

Macmilla:

I may have sounded rude there a bit and I apologize.
The truth is that I am also not a technician. I just love cars so much and love getting them to work perfectly.
The problem is that most of our so-called technicians are nothing but herbalists. I am yet to see a technician so a compression test, but having researched on it, it is the easiest and most important test one can do to know the life of an engine. The tool needed is very cheap, at least on AliExpress, the process takes less than 15min if you know what you are doing. It's just funny they don't want to learn it.

Cryomancer was actually not totally wrong with what he said.
You can tell if some engines (depending on the design of the valve cover and the baffle plate in the valve cover) has serious blow by from the oil fill cap. This trick helps when conducting quick prepurchase Inspection.
An engine with serious blow by (most likely from a worn rings, piston, or sleeves) would always push the oil fill cap up when loosen compare to the suction fill you have from a supposedly healthy engine.
Though I agree with you 100% that the best way to check for compression reading is with a pressure guage, but no dealer would be patient enough to have you set that up while conducting prepurchase Inspection especially if it's a V6 engine where you'd have to take out the intake manifold to access the rear bank plugs.